Painting 3D Printed Miniatures: A Beginner's Guide

Prime, base coat, wash, drybrush: a beginner-proof method for painting 3D printed miniatures, the few tools you really need and the mistakes that ruin a first figure.

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Painting 3D Printed Miniatures: A Beginner's Guide

A freshly printed miniature arrives as a blank grey figure, and painting it is the step most people put off for months. It does not need to be intimidating. This guide covers the handful of tools you really need, the order to do things in and a three-step method that turns a 3D printed mini into something you are proud to put on the table.

Start with a clean, cured print

Paint only sticks to a surface that is ready for it. A resin miniature has to be washed and fully cured (hardened under UV light) before primer goes anywhere near it. Uncured resin stays slightly tacky, primer never bonds properly and the paint peels off in flakes a few weeks later. If you ordered the model from a studio, ask whether it was washed and cured. Fantasy Lab 3D ships resin miniatures cleaned, cured and with the support marks sanded flat, so you can skip the messiest part. The whole routine is described in our post on washing and curing resin prints.

An FDM miniature (printed from plastic filament) needs less prep: snip any stringing, run a fine file over the support points and wipe the figure with isopropyl alcohol to remove finger oils.

The tools you actually need

The hobby can swallow money fast, but a beginner kit is short.

ToolWhy you need itBeginner pick
PrimerGives paint a surface to gripGrey or black spray can
Three brushesBase coats, details, drybrushingSize 2, size 0, one old flat brush
Acrylic miniature paintsThin, dense pigment, water clean-upA starter set of 8 to 10 colours
Wash (shade)Thinned dark paint that flows into recessesOne brown, one black
PaletteKeeps paint workableCeramic tile or a wet palette
Matte varnishProtects the finished mini from handlingSpray or brush-on

You do not need an airbrush, a magnifier lamp or forty pots of paint. Add those later if the hobby sticks.

Prime thin, prime twice

Hold the can 20 to 25 cm from the model and spray in short bursts while turning the figure. Two light coats always beat one heavy coat: thick primer fills the fine detail that resin printing gives you in the first place. Let it dry for at least 30 minutes.

One warning for our climate: spray primer goes chalky and rough when the air is cold or very humid. On a winter day, use brush-on primer indoors instead.

Base coat, wash, drybrush

This trio is how most tabletop miniatures are painted, and it works on the first try.

Base coat

Thin the paint with a drop of water until it flows like milk, then apply two thin coats of the main colour to each area: skin, cloth, metal, leather. Coverage looks patchy after the first coat. That is normal, the second coat fixes it.

Wash

Brush a dark wash over the whole model. It runs into every recess, folds and edges darken, and the miniature suddenly has depth. Let it dry completely, which takes longer than you expect.

Drybrush

Load an old flat brush with a lighter shade of the base colour, wipe almost all of it off on a paper towel, then flick the brush lightly across the raised surfaces. Edges, textures and muscles pop out. Finish with a coat of matte varnish and you have a tabletop-ready figure in one evening.

Mistakes that ruin a first mini

  • Paint straight from the pot. Thick paint buries the detail you paid for.
  • Painting unprimed resin. It will flake.
  • Rushing between layers. Wet wash over a wet base coat turns to mud.
  • One brush for everything. Drybrushing destroys bristles, so keep a sacrificial brush.
  • Skipping varnish. Unprotected acrylic rubs off wherever fingers touch.
  • Choosing a tiny, detailed model first. Start with something 32 mm or larger with big, simple surfaces.

When to let the studio paint it

Some projects are better handed over: a display piece you want at a higher standard than your first attempt, a party of ten heroes you need for Saturday's game, or a large bust that needs an airbrushed base. Fantasy Lab 3D offers post-processing on request, from priming and base colours to full painting, and our post-processing overview shows what each stage involves. The price depends on size, detail and the level of finish you want, so send the model and we will quote it. If you are still choosing the figure itself, the guide to 3D printed D&D miniatures covers scale, resin choice and posing.

Ready to order?

Want a miniature printed, primed or fully painted? Send us the file or a reference image through the contact form and tell us the finish you have in mind. You can also DM us on Instagram at @fantasylab3d.almaty and we will reply with a quote and a timeline.

  • #miniatures
  • #painting
  • #resin printing
  • #post-processing
  • #tabletop

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Send us a link, a file or a rough idea. We reply with a quote and a realistic timeline.

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